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If you’ve ever visited Japan, you know one of the highlights is undoubtedly the food! Within the world of Japanese dining, kaiseki has a prestigious reputation and is often considered the haute cuisine of Japan.
The tradition of kaiseki cuts to the heart of Japanese culture. To delve further into understanding the language and cultural customs of Japan, consider learning Japanese with Rosetta Stone. Live lessons, tutoring, and the interactive Rosetta Stone app can take your studies to the next level!
Kaiseki meaning
Kaiseki refers to multi-course meals that range from six to 15 delicious offerings of traditional Japanese food. The courses often have deep meanings conveyed by the characters, or kanji, used in their names. With kaiseki, hospitality and an appreciation of seasonal ingredients are emphasized.
However, while these points are true for kaiseki overall, there are actually two types of kaiseki that have different histories, customs, and dishes.
Kaiseki types
The two types are both pronounced kaiseki, but they’re written with different combinations of kanji characters: 懐石 or 会席.
The first type, 懐石, was developed in the late 1500s. As this type of kaiseki is inextricably linked to tea ceremonies, it’s served in a tea room and is meant to pair well with Japanese green tea. The first kanji (懐) means “breast-pocket” and the second (石) means “stone.”
This type of kaiseki is sometimes called cha-kaiseki (茶懐石) since cha (茶) means “tea.”
The second type of kaiseki, 会席, also has a long history that by some accounts predates the first. However, it has taken on a more modern appearance. It’s served in a banquet hall, high-class restaurant, or traditional Japanese inn called a ryokan (旅館). Rather than with tea, it’s meant to pair well with Japanese sake. The first kanji (会) means “meeting” and the second (席) means “seat.”
To distinguish it from the other type, it may be called kaiseki ryōri (会席料理), where ryōri simply means “meal.”
Most places that offer kaiseki serve kaiseki ryōri. This is both because access to traditional tea ceremonies is limited, and kaiseki ryōri appeals to customers with its more extravagant dishes.
History of kaiseki
Both types of kaiseki were influenced by an older style of dining called honzen ryōri (本膳料理). Noble samurai families created honzen ryōri to entertain guests, and these meals started with a round of three drinks followed by one soup and three dishes.
From there, the histories of the two types of kaiseki branch out.
The kanji used in the first type of kaiseki (“breast-pocket stone”) illuminate its past, based on a tradition in Zen Buddhism.
Monks could only eat one meal a day, so to help them overcome their hunger, they applied a warm stone to their stomachs. They thought the heat would counteract the natural dropping of body temperature due to hunger and make them feel more full. When applied to kaiseki, the name communicates a positive warming effect on the body.
Zen Buddhism influenced the culture of tea ceremonies from which this type of meal, cha-kaiseki, was derived.
The beginning of the second type, kaiseki ryōri, is more difficult to pinpoint. Restaurants wanted to offer high-class meals that harkened to honzen ryōri and developed their own dishes to showcase local ingredients and specialities. Because of this, there’s much variation in kaiseki ryōri.
Although it’s unclear when exactly kaiseki ryōri started, it took off in the Edo Period (1603-1868 A.D.) and is mostly associated with that time. Early on, this meal was also accompanied by readings of haiku poetry.
Kaiseki vs. omakase
As both kaiseki and another form of dining called omakase (お任せ) feature several specially prepared courses, at first glance they’re easy to confuse.
What distinguishes omakase is alluded to in its name: “I leave it to you.” The chef takes great pride in providing you with the best meal possible, personally attending to you and adjusting the dishes to suit your tastes. It’s a more individualized experience.
Omakase primarily serves sushi courses, although there are exceptions. Kaiseki, on the other hand, offers a wide range of foods within one meal.
What foods are served in kaiseki?
It’s difficult to sum up the kinds of food a kaiseki meal offers, as it includes several courses and a variety of possible dishes. Still, you can expect to dine on fish, vegetables, soup, rice, and traditional Japanese desserts.
While the number of courses depends on the establishment, the sequence of dishes follows particular rules. Although there are overlaps in the names of courses in cha-kaiseki and kaiseki ryōri, they’re served in different orders because the purpose behind the meals is different. Cha-kaiseki is intended to increase your enjoyment of green tea, and kaiseki ryōri is intended to increase your enjoyment of sake.
The course names often include the cooking method used, giving you helpful vocabulary that you can use in situations besides kaiseki.
Courses in cha-kaiseki
Cha-kaiseki meals are overall simpler than kaiseki ryōri meals and usually have fewer courses. Oily and strong-tasting foods are avoided so as to not spoil the taste of the tea, and meat is avoided because of the Zen Buddhism influence. While a cha-kaiseki meal is delicious in its own right, it’s meant to be a preamble that prepares you for the real star: the tea.
Oshiki
Oshiki (折敷) refers to the rectangular wood or lacquerware platter used to serve the first course.
On the oshiki you’ll find three items: rice, a simple soup, and a dish referred to as mukōzuke (向付). Most often the mukōzuke is sashimi—a piece of raw fish. Mukō means “facing a direction” and zuke means “to attach.” The mukōzuke is placed on the tray such that it “connects” the rice and the soup.
Wanmori/nimono
The second course is a soup referred to as wanmori (椀盛り) or nimono (煮物). Wan means “bowl.” Mori means “to prosper” but can refer to a food serving in general. Ni comes from the word niru (煮る), which means “to simmer.” Mono simply means “thing.”
The wanmori/nimono soup is made by simmering an assortment of ingredients, such as fish, chicken, fruit, and vegetables. These ingredients are especially season-dependent, resulting in vastly different soups in summer and winter. With staples of Japanese cooking such as dashi (soup stock) and mirin (sweet rice wine), along with an aromatic garnish referred to as suikuchi (吸い口), the flavor is rich and complex.
Because this soup particularly invokes seasonal appreciation and requires more advanced cooking techniques, the second course is often said to be the highlight of a cha-kaiseki meal.
Yakimono
Yakimono (焼き物) literally means “grilled thing” and is a course of grilled fish. The unique feature of the yakimono course is that servings for the whole table are served on one plate, and each person takes a piece with their chopsticks.
Shīzakana
The shīzakana (強肴) course is designed to pair well with alcohol. It’s often a mix of vegetables and/or seafood covered in sauce. Alternatively, it could be tempura (天ぷら)—lightly battered deep-fried vegetables or shrimp.
The word shīzakana consists of two kanji. The first is most commonly used in the word tsuyoi (強い) meaning “strong.” The second kanji means “appetizer or snack served with drinks” and is unrelated to the Japanese word for “fish,” which is sakana (魚).
Suimono
Suimono (吸い物) literally means “sip thing.” It’s a clear broth soup that could include ingredients such as mushrooms, tofu, and clams. The transparency of the soup purposefully allows you to see the ingredients. This course acts as a palate cleanser.
Hassun
The name hassun (八寸) means “eight sun,” where sun is an antiquated unit of measurement. Eight sun are approximately equal to 24 centimeters, which is the length of the platter used in this course. The hassun course utilizes prime seafood and vegetables—often gathered from the mountains—and these ingredients call attention to seasonality, a key feature of kaiseki.
Yutō and kōnomono
To conclude the meal portion and transition into having tea, you’ll be given a lacquer pitcher with a long spout. This is called a yutō (湯桶), so named because oyu (お湯) means “hot water.” From the yutō you will pour hot water or broth into rice to make a porridge.
The kōnomono (香の物) is a side of tsukemono. Tsukemono (漬物) are pickled vegetables often included in a typical everyday Japanese meal. The name kōnomono literally means “fragrant thing.”
Koicha and omogashi
With your belly comfortably full and your palate prepared, you can best appreciate the special type of tea that pairs with cha-kaiseki called koicha (濃茶). This tea perfectly fits the meaning of koi (濃い) as it has a “thick, dark, deep” flavor, more so than standard matcha.
In tea ceremonies, it’s common to enjoy your matcha with traditional Japanese sweets. Cha-kaiseki is no exception. The sweets here are called omogashi (主菓子), or “main confection.”
Popular omogashi include daifuku, nerikiri, and kinton. Daifuku (大福) are mochi with a filling such as red bean paste. Nerikiri (練り切り) are made from white bean paste that’s colored and sculpted to make any kind of shape, demonstrating amazing skill and creativity. Kinton (金団) is a mashed sweet potato dessert that’s often mixed with mashed chestnut.
Courses in kaiseki-ryōri
The purpose of kaiseki ryōri is to celebrate fine dining and good alcohol! Unlike cha-kaiseki, kaiseki ryōri offers meat dishes and heavier foods. Sake is present throughout the meal rather than saved for the end.
Sakizuke
The first course in kaiseki ryōri is sakizuke (先付け), where saki means “previous” or “precedes.” There’s no limit to what the sakizuke is, but since it’s just intended to prepare guests for the following courses, it only provides a few bites of food.
Suimono
In both types of kaiseki, the suimono (吸い物) course is a clear broth soup intended as a palate cleanser. However, in contrast to the sequence in cha-kaiseki, the suimono is the first soup served in kaiseki ryōri. The name means “sip thing.” Oxtail soup is popular.
Hassun
The hassun (八寸) course is based on the same ideas in both types of kaiseki. The name comes from the length of the serving plate, and the dish includes seafood and vegetables, showing respect to the seasonality of the ingredients.
Tsukuri
Tsukuri (造り) is a synonym for sashimi. The reason tsukuri is preferred here is because it sounds less violent; sashimi comes from the word sasu (刺す) meaning “to stab,” whereas the meaning of tsukuru (造る) is simply “to make.”
Yakimono
Yakimono (焼き物) means “grilled thing.” You’ll often be served a whole grilled fish with the head still attached. You should eat starting from the upper body and progressively go toward the tail. The type of fish depends on the season.
Takiawase/nimono
The takiawase (炊き合わせ) course is any combination of simmered food, including vegetables, seafood, meat, etc. The meaning of taki is “cooked” and the meaning of awase is “joined together.” Since simmering is involved in the process, the dish may be called nimono (煮物), or “simmered thing.”
In contrast to the nimono in cha-kaiseki, the nimono in kaiseki ryōri is not particularly emphasized.
Agemono
Agemono (揚げ物) means “deep-fried thing” and is a course of tempura. The word agemono is commonly used by Japanese people, even outside the context of kaiseki.
Mushimono
Mushimono (蒸し物) means “steamed thing.” It’s typically served in a small enclosed bowl or teacup that contains the steam. Egg custard is a common ingredient, as is fish.
Sunomono
Sunomono (酢の物) means “vinegar thing,” as su (酢) means vinegar. The goal of this course is to cleanse the guest’s palate with an acidic taste. Sunomono may be tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and/or pickled fish.
Gohan
Gohan (ご飯) simply means “rice,” but the gohan served here is usually flavored and mixed with vegetables. It’s notable that rice is served at the beginning in cha-kaiseki and toward the end in kaiseki ryōri.
Tome-wan
Tome-wan (止め椀) literally means “stop bowl” and thus signifies the end of the meal. The bowl is filled with miso soup or another light soup. You can enjoy it together with the gohan.
Mizumono/mizugashi
Last is the dessert! There are two common names for this course. Mizumono (水物) means “water thing” and mizugashi (水菓子) means “water confection.” Water is emphasized to imply that guests should not order any more alcohol. A seasonal fruit and agar jelly dessert is standard.
Kaiseki customs
The main customs you should observe also apply to general Japanese restaurant etiquette. With cha-kaiseki, you’ll additionally want to follow the rules of Japanese tea ceremonies. Some things to keep in mind include:
- Check whether there’s a dress code. With cha-kaiseki, it’s best to wear a kimono. Kaiseki ryōri is less strict, but consider what you would wear to other upper-scale restaurants.
- When entering a room with tatami mat flooring, you’ll need to remove your shoes and must be wearing socks. Be careful not to step on the edges of the mats.
- If you’re dining in a group with a hierarchy, those of lower-rank sit closer to the door and those of higher-rank sit farther away. When this custom was created back in the times of the samurai, the idea was if anyone entered the room intending to attack, those of lower-rank would be the first guard of defense.
- Before you begin eating, you’ll be given a small damp towel or wipe called an oshibori (おしぼり). You should only use it to clean your hands, and not wipe the table or anything else.
- If something is served on a small plate or in a small bowl, hold it up to your chest while eating so you’re not bending over. To Japanese people, hunching over food looks animalistic and is therefore rude.
- Eat the food in the order given. If you’re not done with your food and the next dish comes out, take your time and finish what you started first.
- To clean up, put tableware in its original positions. If a bowl arrives with a lid, you should put it back on. Contrary to what you may be accustomed to, don’t stack the dishes.
- When in doubt, follow the lead of the Japanese people around you!
Experience Japanese cuisine
Japan has no shortage of delicious food, such as the multi-course meals of kaiseki. With a rich history and a selection of amazing dishes that convey deeper meanings, kaiseki is sure to leave a profound impact on you.
If you’d like to savor a variety of traditional Japanese foods, you’ll optimize your experience if you know how to order food in Japanese. To discover more about Japanese cuisine when traveling, you can ask locals about its nuances and they’ll be happy to educate you! Learning Japanese from home? Interact with native speakers and practice asking questions through Rosetta Stone’s Live Lessons.